Marios Schwab picked to design for Halston


London-based designer appointed creative director.
Models display designs from the Halston spring/summer 09 collection. Centre: newly appointed creative director Marios Schwab
Halston with Bianca and Mick Jagger at Studio 54, for Bianca's birthday party in 1977. Photo: GETTY IMAGES
Models display designs from the Marios Schwab spring/summer 09 collection at London Fashion Week. Centre: Schwab takes a bow. Photo: GEOFF PUGH/ JEFF GILBERT
The London-based young designer, Marios Schwab, one of the initiators of the 'body-con' craze, has been named as the new creative director of the legendary American luxury brand, Halston.
Schwab, 32, who celebrates his 33rd birthday next month, will present his first collection for Halston, at New York Fashion Week in February, 2010
The Austrian-born designer intends to continue his own label, which he launched in London in 2005, and will commute regularly to New York.
Schwab, a graduate of Central Saint Martins fashion college in London, succeeds Marco Zanini who left Halston last year.
Halston's president and chief executive officer, Bonnie Takhar, said Schwab's spring 2009 show at London Fashion Week had caught the attention of Halston executives.
"He used a lot of jersey in a very modern way," Takhar said. "The silhouettes were also very fluid, and we thought they had a very modern Halston interpretation."
Roy Halston Frowick, a former milliner who designed the pillbox-hat Jacqueline Kennedy wore for the Presidential Inauguration, in 1961, founded his label in the late 1960s. He became the 'wardrobe master' of the Studio 54 Generation, dressing a blue-chip portfolio of celebrities and stars including Liza Minelli, Lauren Bacall, Bianca Jagger, Angelica Huston and Elizabeth Taylor, among others. His signature was the ability to engineer apparently seamless, fluid dresses in silk jersey, which used no buttons or zips. Halston died in 1990 at the age of 57, from lung cancer resulting from complications with Aids.
Speaking from his London studio this afternoon, where he is currently working on his own spring/summer 2010 collection to be shown at London Fashion Week in September, Schwab said Halston was one of the three designers, along with Helmut Lang and Yves Saint Laurent, who have most inspired him.
"Halston, for me, is such a momentous label. It defines a moment in time, the 1970s. It epitomises the glamour and pleasure-seeking of that decade, a beautiful fantasy moment, something that is lacking in fashion right now."
Schwab conceded that, on the surface, his own design signature might seem at odds with the Halston ethos, but added: "I would never intend to go to work for a label that was the same as my own, there would be no challenge.
"But I am passionate about long-lasting research and technical innovation and this is what I can bring to Halston to bring the brand forward. I will approach it with respect. But in a manner which will refresh."
"What we have in common, was Halston was strict and disciplined and his designs were deceptive in that what appeared to be simple was, in fact, intricate and involved a high degree of craftsmanship. I admire that.
"The magic was in the way the cut enhanced different shapes of women, without overtaking their own style. This to me is very important, especially now when the time has come for women to shape their own opinion on how they want to dress."
Halston was bought by Hilco Consumer Capital and The Weinstein Company two years ago. The British shoe queen, Tamara Mellon, is a member of the board and creative consultant.
Plans are also in hand to launch a Halston Heritage collection based on original Halston designs from the archives.